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> My new sub box
Eddy
post Feb 23 2008, 08:22 PM
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I finally got around to building a new sub box that's not so ghetto and took out the dual 10 box that I pretty much just threw together over a year ago. I went with a single 10" box since I've got a newer MTX and the Kenwood 10 was about 8-9 years old and starting to rattle. I don't have pics of the build because my camera battery was charging today while I was building it. The box sits down in the well and the top piece has "wings" that go all the way across the well on top of the humps on each side. It's just a hair over 1 cubic foot of air space I believe. I went with 1/2 MDF instead of the 3/4 (really 7/8) because the other box that I had weighed about 60lbs. This one is maybe 15lbs with the sub in it. It has a nice sound. It actually sounds better than when I was running 2 subs. I used the fabric I had left over to cover the top so it would be bare MDF.

I got the plans on TGO. I put the sub all the way to one side so I can have enough room to put stuff down in the trunk.

---Not audio related, but while I had the box out I replaced my P.O.S. ghetto rigged latch with a working power hatch pull down oohyea.gif so no more SLAMMING the hatch. I also got a new bulb and hooked up the courtesy light on the rear panel. Now I can say EVERYTHING on the car works....except for the reverse lights. But, that's due to the tranny swap and the T-5 didn't have a rev light plug on it. I think I've got the right part now to fix it, it's just a matter of crawling under there and hooking it up.
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1991 Firebird 355/WC T5/3.27 9 bolt. Edlebrock shorty headers, 3" pipe, Hookers Aero chamber, Full WS6 suspension transplant, Lakewood LCA's, UMI adjustable panhard bar, 4th gen power lumbar ebony leather, 4th gen console
Power everything

2000 Ford F-250 SuperDuty 7.3 diesel auto
2000 Ford F-150 4x4 5.4/auto
2011 Ford Explorer 3.5/auto
2006 Chevrolet Uplander 3.5/auto full of tool boxes
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Stephen
post Feb 23 2008, 09:26 PM
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Not too shabby! A wire rerouting & hiding, and your done!

Hmmm....Sink your amp flush, t Put a plex window on top, a fan underneath, and a way for heat to escape, then you couldn't see the wiring!


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Eddy
post Feb 25 2008, 04:56 PM
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I'm thinking seriously about mounting the amp inside the storage box on the driver side. I'm guessing it would get enough air. It's been hiding under a towel for the past year with no problems.


--------------------
1991 Firebird 355/WC T5/3.27 9 bolt. Edlebrock shorty headers, 3" pipe, Hookers Aero chamber, Full WS6 suspension transplant, Lakewood LCA's, UMI adjustable panhard bar, 4th gen power lumbar ebony leather, 4th gen console
Power everything

2000 Ford F-250 SuperDuty 7.3 diesel auto
2000 Ford F-150 4x4 5.4/auto
2011 Ford Explorer 3.5/auto
2006 Chevrolet Uplander 3.5/auto full of tool boxes
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StevenK
post Feb 25 2008, 06:40 PM
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If it starts to overheat just put a vent fan on it....


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1991 Z-28 - LS1 & T-56 Swap - 4.10 4th Gen Rear
ARE Stage 1 Heads - 2.02" intake, 1.57" exhaust, Comp 918 Springs
Thunder Racing Custom Camshaft - 224/224 .563/.563 114 LSA
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Stephen
post Feb 25 2008, 09:15 PM
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I've see amps mounted in the spare tire well before without fans. Probably depends on the amp itself, heat sinks, etc.


--------------------
My 4Sale Stuff

Harwood Cowl Induction hood~4th gen rear wing~Ground Control Weight Jacks front & rear~180 deg thermostat~TSP Rumbler Magnaflow cat-back~UMI rod ended LCAs & PHB~275/315 17" ROH Snypers~"custom" CAI~Alson SFCs~IROC Wonderbar~UMI Billet tie rod adjusters~Sylvania Silver Star headlights & fog lights (fog light shield removed~Fogs w/Highs on mod

2" shackle drop rear~Volant CAI~Dynomax 39310 Ultra Flow Cat-back~JVC single DIN USB port deck~Duplicolor exterior paint matched interior pieces
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Eddy
post Feb 25 2008, 10:05 PM
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I don't think I'll have to worry about it getting hot. I don't even have it turned up half way. It survived 4 years under the seat of my truck with no problems. It probably wouldn't hurt to buy a new amp one of these days....I've had this one since the late 90's.


--------------------
1991 Firebird 355/WC T5/3.27 9 bolt. Edlebrock shorty headers, 3" pipe, Hookers Aero chamber, Full WS6 suspension transplant, Lakewood LCA's, UMI adjustable panhard bar, 4th gen power lumbar ebony leather, 4th gen console
Power everything

2000 Ford F-250 SuperDuty 7.3 diesel auto
2000 Ford F-150 4x4 5.4/auto
2011 Ford Explorer 3.5/auto
2006 Chevrolet Uplander 3.5/auto full of tool boxes
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StevenK
post Feb 26 2008, 02:28 PM
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late 90s amps > todays amps.

Seriously, all the shit on the market these days is utter crap or WAY overpriced (imho)


--------------------
1991 Z-28 - LS1 & T-56 Swap - 4.10 4th Gen Rear
ARE Stage 1 Heads - 2.02" intake, 1.57" exhaust, Comp 918 Springs
Thunder Racing Custom Camshaft - 224/224 .563/.563 114 LSA
Head Flow Sheet
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kewl_blades
post Feb 26 2008, 05:54 PM
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generally, yea...the late 80's to late 90's car amps were built like tanks...the only modern amp worth investing in is the JL class D amps. About 2 to 4 times a year, you can get them half price if you keep your ears and eyes open.
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StevenK
post Feb 26 2008, 08:55 PM
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If/when I build a new system I'll be getting a 5 channel amp....

Problem is, DAMN that pricetag hurts.


--------------------
1991 Z-28 - LS1 & T-56 Swap - 4.10 4th Gen Rear
ARE Stage 1 Heads - 2.02" intake, 1.57" exhaust, Comp 918 Springs
Thunder Racing Custom Camshaft - 224/224 .563/.563 114 LSA
Head Flow Sheet
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